On a recent night there was a cooked potato, an onion and some leftover cooked meat in the fridge — just what I needed for pyttipanna, a light, delicious, versatile version of hash.

The name pytt i panna literally means teeny pieces in a pan. Vegans, don’t despair: Replace the meat with mushrooms or root vegetables and it will be equally delicious. I’ve been making this to use up leftovers since the ‘70s, but it’s become rather fashionable and is served in trendy Scandinavian restaurants.

It hardly needs a recipe. I use equal amounts of onions, potatoes and leftover cooked meat, which can be almost anything from roast filet mignon to frankfurters, pork chops, chicken, turkey or ham. You can make this with diced uncooked meat as well; just be sure to fully cook it. 

Directions

1. Dice the peeled potatoes, meat, mushroom or root vegs and onion into ¼-inch cubes, keeping them in separate piles.
2. Heat a cast iron frying pan or similar heavy-bottomed pan over medium heat. Add the oil or butter and when hot but not smoking, add the onions and cook, stirring often until they are soft and browned. Remove the onion from the pan and reserve.
3. Add more oil or butter and when hot but not smoking, add the potatoes and cook, stirring often until they are browned and crispy.  Remove the potatoes from the pan and reserve.
4. Repeat the same process with the meat, browning it and heating it through. Add the potatoes and onions to the meat and heat it through. Season with salt and lots of fresh cracked black pepper and pile it on four plates. (Note: This doesn’t get smashed into a pancake like American-style hash.)

Serve with mustard, garlic aioli, Worcestershire sauce, Pickapeppa sauce, hot sauce, chopped herbs or ketchup. Top it with a fried or poached egg, crumbled crispy-cooked bacon or fresh arugula.